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Why Jordanian Kitchens Cook With Samneh Baladi

Bader Dairy cow ghee in a glass jar on a stone ledge with flatbread and whole spices

There is almost always a jar of samneh baladi within reach of a Jordanian stove. Not in the back of a cupboard for special occasions — on the counter, in daily use. Here is why.

It takes real heat

Butter burns early because the milk solids in it scorch. Clarifying removes those solids, which lifts the smoke point substantially. That means you can get a pan genuinely hot before the meat goes in and still taste the fat rather than the burn.

It carries flavour instead of just conducting heat

Neutral oil does a job and disappears. Samneh does not disappear. Stir a spoonful through finished rice and the whole pot changes character. Soften onions in it and the base of the stew tastes deeper. It is closer to an ingredient than to a cooking medium.

It keeps

With the water removed, there is far less for spoilage to work with. This is the original reason for clarifying butter in a hot climate without refrigeration, and it is why the technique survived into kitchens that now have freezers.

Where to start

If you have never cooked with it, do the simplest thing first: make plain rice, and stir a tablespoon through it off the heat. Then try the same rice without it. That comparison explains more than any recipe.

From the Journal

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